1927 DOliveira Bastardo Vintage Madeira - medium dry
€ 1,450.00
| Producer | D'Oliveiras |
| Region | Madeira |
| Grapes | Bastardo |
| Ageing | At least 20 years in cask (Frasqueira), bottled in 2006 |
| Alcohol | 19,5%vol |
| Serving | 18°C, open a few hours in advance Store upright, keeps almost indefinitely once opened |
| Scores | 90/100 The Wine Advocate |
A 1927 Bastardo, one of the rarest Madeiras in existence.
Tasting note
Aromatic black walnut and green figs are abundant. A refined, very reserved bouquet with notes of dried honey and crème brûlée. Very elegant and harmonious on the palate, with a fine, precise finish of honey, quince, orange and hazelnut.
The story
The red Bastardo barely survived phylloxera and has all but disappeared from Madeira, which makes a Bastardo Madeira exceptionally rare. The grape was long regarded as one of the noble varieties (castas nobres) and was also used in a famous Solera.
This wine aged in the Adegas do Torreão and was bottled in 2006.
These are Madeira’s finest wines, with almost unlimited ageing potential. A Frasqueira (formerly called vintage Madeira) must spend at least 20 years in cask and two years in bottle before it may be sold. It comes from a single good harvest and a single noble grape, both stated on the label with the harvest and bottling years. After gentle heating it ages for a long time in wooden casks, and once bottled its quality no longer changes. Because they are so rare, these wines are inventoried.
Madeira spends years ageing in an oxidative environment and moves into a reductive one at bottling. It is therefore best to open the bottle a few hours in advance. After that, air no longer affects the wine: an open bottle keeps almost indefinitely and often tastes even better months later. Always store Madeira upright, as the acidity attacks the cork if the bottle lies down.
Food pairing
Walnut bread with Manchego and Spanish ham such as jamón serrano. Roast duck with a dark chocolate sauce.
Also an excellent companion to a pipe, cigar or aromatic tobacco.
The producer
D’Oliveiras (Pereira D’Oliveira) is one of the most traditional Madeira houses and is still owned by the founding family, whose roots lie in São Martinho, above Funchal. Through the purchase of other houses, the oldest of them founded in 1820, D’Oliveiras holds the island’s largest stock of old vintages, going back to 1850. In 1968 the brothers Aníbal and Luís D’Oliveira joined the firm, which then began to export. Since Aníbal’s death in 2017, Luís and Aníbal’s son Filipe have carried on the house.
The house is convinced that Madeira ages best in cask. Old vintages therefore stay in wood, and only as much is bottled as is needed. D’Oliveiras was one of the first on the island to print the bottling year on the back label. The lodge is on Rua dos Ferreiros in old Funchal, in buildings dating back to 1619.
Critics & Awards
90/100 The Wine Advocate
93/100 CellarTracker (17 notes)
Reviews
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